How to Change Blade on SKILSAW Flooring Saw: Safe Easy Steps

If you want to know how to change blade on SKILSAW flooring saw models such as the common SKIL 3601/3601-02, unplug the saw, move the saw assembly fully back, open the blade-bolt cover, hold the arbor lock, turn the left-hand-thread blade bolt clockwise to remove it, take off the outer collar and old blade, then install the correct replacement blade with its rotation arrow matching the arrow on the guard. Reinstall the collar and bolt, tighten securely without overtightening, release the arbor lock, and close the blade-bolt cover.

The unusual part is the blade bolt. On the SKIL 3601 flooring saw, it uses a left-hand thread, so the removal direction is opposite what many people expect: you turn the bolt clockwise to loosen it. Trying to force it counterclockwise can make the bolt tighter and may damage the fastener or tool.

Blade compatibility matters just as much as the removal procedure. For the SKIL 3601/3601-02, the specified blade is 4-3/8 inches in diameter with a 3/4-inch arbor, and the replacement blade must also meet specific kerf and plate-thickness requirements so it works correctly with the saw’s riving knife.

In this guide, I’ll explain how to change the blade step by step, which replacement blade specifications matter, which direction to turn the blade bolt, how to avoid common installation mistakes, and what to check before making the first cut with the new blade.

Before You Change the Blade: Confirm Your Flooring Saw Model

The instructions below apply specifically to the SKIL 3601 and 3601-02 flooring saw design, which is commonly searched for online as a SKILSAW flooring saw.

Check the model label on your saw before beginning.

This is important because blade size, arbor diameter, arbor-lock location, blade-bolt threading, and cover design can differ between saw models.

If your model number is different, use the same general safety principles but verify the exact blade-change procedure in the manual for that saw before loosening anything.

The left-hand blade bolt is especially important. You should never assume that every circular saw, flooring saw, or SKILSAW-branded tool uses the same bolt direction.

What Blade Does the SKIL 3601 Flooring Saw Use?

Before removing the existing blade, make sure the replacement is actually compatible.

For the SKIL 3601/3601-02 flooring saw, the blade specifications are:

Blade Specification	Required Size or Rating
Blade diameter	4-3/8 in. (110 mm)
Arbor diameter	3/4 in.
Minimum blade speed rating	11,000 RPM
Replacement blade kerf	0.061 in. or wider
Blade body/plate thickness	Less than 0.057 in.
Original blade kerf	Approximately 0.078 in.
Original blade body thickness	Approximately 0.047 in.

These dimensions are not minor recommendations. The relationship between blade kerf and blade-body thickness affects how the blade works with the riving knife behind it. The manual specifically warns against extra-thin-kerf blades and blades with excessively thick body plates.

Why Kerf Width Matters

Kerf is the width of material removed by the blade teeth.

The riving knife follows the blade through the cut and helps prevent the workpiece from closing against the rear portion of the blade.

If you install an unusually thin-kerf blade, its cut may be too narrow for the riving knife to pass through correctly.

For the 3601, the manual specifies a kerf of at least 0.061 inch.

Why Blade Plate Thickness Matters

The steel body of the blade also needs to be thin enough relative to the riving knife and tooth kerf.

For this model, the replacement blade’s body should be less than 0.057 inch thick.

Do not buy a blade based solely on the fact that it has a 4-3/8-inch diameter.

Diameter, arbor, RPM rating, kerf, and body thickness all need to be compatible.

Key Takeaways:

• Use a 4-3/8-inch blade with a 3/4-inch arbor on the SKIL 3601/3601-02.
• The blade must have a kerf of at least 0.061 inch and a body thinner than 0.057 inch.
• Do not substitute an extra-thin-kerf blade just because the diameter fits.

Tools You Need to Change the Blade

You do not need many tools for this job.

The flooring saw originally includes a hex wrench for the blade bolt. You will also need a Phillips screwdriver to remove the rear screw that holds the blade-bolt cover.

A clean cloth is useful for removing dust or excess oil from the replacement blade and inspecting the arbor components.

If you no longer have the original hex wrench, use a correctly sized replacement that fits the blade bolt securely. Avoid using a loose-fitting tool that could round the bolt head.

I also recommend having the new blade beside you before disassembling the saw so you can compare its specifications with the old blade.

Safety Before Changing a SKILSAW Flooring Saw Blade

Unplug the flooring saw from the power outlet before touching the blade, arbor, bolt, guard, or any other internal component.

Turning the power switch off is not enough.

The saw should be physically disconnected from its power source so an accidental switch activation cannot start the blade while your hands are near it.

If you have just been using the saw, wait until the blade has completely stopped before unplugging and beginning the change.

Inspect the replacement blade before installation. Do not install a blade with cracked carbide teeth, missing tips, visible warping, or other damage.

Carbide is extremely hard but also brittle. A damaged carbide tooth can break apart at high blade speed.

The 3601 manual also specifies that its blade should not be used for metal or masonry. Use the saw only with blades and materials approved for its intended operation.

How to Change Blade on SKILSAW Flooring Saw Step by Step

The actual replacement process is straightforward once you know about the left-hand blade bolt.

1. Unplug the Flooring Saw

Disconnect the saw’s power cord from the outlet.

Do this before adjusting the saw or placing it on its side.

Do not rely on the trigger switch or assume that because the saw is not running it cannot start.

2. Place the Saw on Its Side

The manufacturer’s procedure for the 3601 recommends placing the flooring saw on its side to make blade access easier.

Choose a stable, clean work surface.

Avoid placing the machine where it can slide, tip, or rest awkwardly on controls or other vulnerable components.

3. Move the Saw Assembly Fully Back

Slide the saw assembly backward to its farthest position.

This puts the blade where it can be removed through the designated opening in the saw table.

If you skip this step, you may find that the blade cannot clear the table even after the bolt and collar are removed.

Do not attempt to bend the blade around the table or force it through another opening.

4. Open the Blade-Bolt Cover

Locate the blade-bolt cover.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the rear screw holding the cover.

Then rotate the cover away from the blade bolt.

Set the screw somewhere safe where it cannot roll away or become mixed with flooring debris.

At this point, you should have clear access to the blade bolt.

5. Press and Hold the Arbor Lock

Locate the arbor-lock control.

Push and hold it so the arbor cannot rotate while you loosen the blade bolt.

You may need to move the blade very slightly until the arbor-lock mechanism fully engages.

Do not apply heavy force to the blade bolt until you know the lock is properly seated.

If the arbor continues to rotate, stop and engage the lock again.

6. Turn the Blade Bolt Clockwise to Remove It

This is the step most likely to cause confusion.

The SKIL 3601 blade bolt uses a left-hand thread.

That means:

Clockwise = loosen/remove

This is the opposite of an ordinary right-hand-thread fastener.

Keep the arbor lock engaged and use the correct hex wrench to turn the bolt clockwise.

Do not keep pulling harder counterclockwise if the bolt feels extremely tight—you may simply be turning it in the tightening direction.

Once the bolt is loose, finish removing it carefully.

7. Remove the Blade Bolt and Outer Collar

Take off the blade bolt and the removable blade collar.

Pay attention to the collar’s orientation before setting it down.

Taking a quick photo before removing it can be useful if you are unfamiliar with the saw.

The inner washer does not need to be removed during the normal blade-changing procedure.

Keep the bolt and collar clean. Sawdust or debris trapped between these components and the blade can prevent the blade from seating correctly.

8. Remove the Old Blade Through the Table Opening

With the bolt and outer collar removed, carefully lower the old blade through the kerf insert and remove it through the underside of the saw table.

The saw assembly needs to be in its fully retracted position for this to work properly.

Handle the blade by its center and non-tooth areas as much as practical.

Even a dull blade can still cut skin.

Do not strike the carbide tips against the metal table while removing the blade.

Key Takeaways:

• The blade bolt on the SKIL 3601 has a left-hand thread, so turn it clockwise to loosen.
• Remove the outer collar, but normally leave the inner washer in place.
• Slide the old blade down through the kerf insert and out through the bottom of the table.

How to Install the New Blade Correctly

Removing the old blade is only half the job. Correct installation determines whether the new blade runs safely and cuts properly.

9. Check the Replacement Blade Again

Before inserting it, verify the blade specifications.

For the 3601/3601-02, confirm the 4-3/8-inch diameter and 3/4-inch arbor first.

Then verify the minimum RPM rating, kerf width, and blade-body thickness.

Do not install a blade that is larger or smaller simply because you think the guard has enough clearance.

The flooring saw is designed around a specific blade geometry and riving-knife relationship.

If the blade has protective oil or excess residue on it, clean that material away according to the blade manufacturer’s instructions before installation.

10. Match the Blade Rotation Arrow

Find the rotation arrow printed or etched on the replacement blade.

Then locate the rotation arrow on the flooring saw’s upper guard.

The two arrows must point in the same direction.

Do not determine blade direction simply by remembering what the teeth “look like.” Matching the manufacturer’s rotation arrows is much more reliable.

Installing the blade backward will produce very poor cutting performance and is not a condition you should attempt to correct by forcing material through the saw.

11. Insert the Blade Into Position

Guide the new blade up through the appropriate table opening and onto the arbor.

Take care not to strike or chip the carbide teeth against the metal structure.

The blade should sit flat against the inner washer or flange.

If it does not sit flat, do not immediately tighten the bolt harder.

Remove the blade and inspect for debris, an incorrect arbor size, damaged components, or improper seating.

12. Reinstall the Blade Collar

Place the outer collar back in the same orientation in which it was originally installed.

The collar needs to sit properly against the blade.

This is another reason taking a photo during disassembly can be helpful.

Do not improvise additional washers or spacers to make an incompatible blade fit.

If the arbor hole does not match the saw correctly, use the proper blade rather than modifying the mounting system.

13. Install the Blade Bolt

Start the blade bolt by hand first.

Because it has a left-hand thread, its tightening direction is opposite a normal bolt.

Starting it gently by hand helps prevent cross-threading.

If the bolt immediately feels difficult to turn, back it out and start again. Do not use the wrench to force incorrectly engaged threads.

Once it is finger-tight, press and hold the arbor lock.

Use the hex wrench to tighten the blade bolt securely.

The manual specifically warns not to overtighten it.

The blade needs to be clamped securely, but extreme leverage on the wrench is unnecessary.

14. Release the Arbor Lock

After tightening, release the arbor lock.

Make sure the locking mechanism has disengaged properly so it does not interfere with blade rotation.

Do not reconnect power yet.

Inspect the blade installation visually first.

15. Close the Blade-Bolt Cover

Rotate the blade-bolt cover back into its normal position.

Reinstall the rear Phillips screw and tighten it securely.

Do not operate the flooring saw with the blade-bolt cover intentionally left open or removed.

16. Check Blade Clearance Before Using the Saw

With the saw still unplugged, inspect the blade position and surrounding components.

The blade should not contact the table, base, guard structure, or another stationary component.

The manufacturer’s instructions specifically state that if the newly installed blade contacts the table structure, you should stop and seek authorized service rather than operate the saw.

Also look at the relationship between the blade and riving knife.

They should appear properly aligned rather than noticeably offset.

Do not make a test cut if anything looks wrong.

Why Blade Direction Matters

A circular saw blade is designed so its teeth enter the material in a specific direction.

The tooth geometry, blade rotation, guard system, and workpiece support all assume that correct orientation.

A backward blade may scrape rather than cut efficiently.

You might notice excessive noise, poor feed, severe chipping, burning, or unusually slow cutting.

If you suspect the blade was installed backward, unplug the saw and check the arrows.

Do not attempt to compensate by forcing flooring through harder.

What If the Blade Bolt Will Not Loosen?

First, confirm the direction.

For the SKIL 3601/3601-02, turn the blade bolt clockwise to remove it.

If you instinctively turned it counterclockwise first, you may have tightened it further.

Next, make sure the arbor lock is fully engaged.

If the arbor rotates while you pull on the wrench, you will have difficulty breaking the bolt loose.

Use the correctly fitting hex wrench so you do not round the fastener.

I would avoid adding a long pipe or other improvised extension to the wrench. Excessive leverage can damage the arbor-lock mechanism, bolt, or other components.

If the bolt is seized and normal hand pressure with the correct tool does not remove it, service may be safer than escalating the force.

What If the New Blade Wobbles?

A properly installed blade should not visibly wobble.

If it does, disconnect the power immediately.

Possible causes include an incorrect arbor size, debris between the blade and collar, incorrect collar installation, a damaged blade, damaged arbor components, or a blade that is not seated flat.

Remove the blade and inspect the installation again.

Do not assume tightening the bolt harder will solve wobble.

A warped blade cannot be safely corrected by increasing bolt torque.

What If the New Blade Rubs the Riving Knife?

Stop using the saw.

The problem may be related to blade kerf, blade-body thickness, riving-knife alignment, or an incorrect replacement blade.

This is exactly why the manual specifies minimum kerf and maximum body thickness.

An extra-thin blade can create a kerf that is too narrow for the riving knife.

Before making another cut, verify the blade’s specifications.

If the blade specifications are correct but the riving knife is visibly out of alignment, follow the manufacturer’s riving-knife alignment procedure or obtain qualified service.

Do not simply remove the riving knife so an incompatible blade can be used.

Key Takeaways:

• Blade wobble usually means something is incorrectly seated, incompatible, dirty, or damaged.
• Rubbing against the riving knife can indicate an incorrect blade specification or alignment problem.
• Do not solve either problem by overtightening the bolt or removing safety components.

When Should You Replace a Flooring Saw Blade?

You do not need to replace the blade simply because it has completed a certain number of cuts.

Blade life depends heavily on the material.

Laminate flooring can be especially abrasive, so a blade used for a large laminate installation may dull faster than one cutting ordinary wood.

Signs that replacement or professional sharpening may be needed include increased chipping, slower feed, increased cutting effort, burning, unusually rough edges, or noticeably reduced performance.

Visible damage is more serious.

Replace a blade with cracked teeth, missing carbide tips, a warped plate, or another structural defect.

Do not continue using a damaged blade simply because it still cuts.

Choosing a Blade for Laminate Flooring

If you are changing the blade because you are cutting laminate, look for a blade whose manufacturer specifically approves it for laminate, flooring, or similar composite materials while still meeting all of the 3601’s dimensional requirements.

Laminate flooring has a hard wear layer that can be tough on saw teeth.

A sharp carbide-tipped flooring blade generally gives cleaner results and better durability than an unsuitable general-purpose blade.

However, tooth count alone should not determine your choice.

The critical first step is compatibility with the saw.

A beautiful fine-finish blade is useless if its arbor, kerf, body thickness, diameter, or speed rating is wrong.

Can You Install a Thin-Kerf Blade to Make Easier Cuts?

Not if it falls below the saw’s required kerf specification.

Thin-kerf blades are useful on many portable saws because they remove less material and can require less cutting power.

But the SKIL 3601 uses a riving knife sized for a particular blade range.

The manual requires a replacement blade kerf of 0.061 inch or wider.

Using a blade narrower than that can leave insufficient clearance for the riving knife.

This is a safety-related dimensional requirement, not merely a preference for cut quality.

Do You Need to Remove the Riving Knife When Changing the Blade?

No, not for a routine blade change on the SKIL 3601.

The normal blade-removal procedure involves the blade-bolt cover, arbor lock, bolt, outer collar, and blade.

The inner washer remains in place, and the blade is removed through the table opening.

The riving knife has its own separate alignment procedure.

Unless you are specifically servicing or aligning it according to the manufacturer’s instructions, there is no reason to remove it simply to replace a blade.

Making the First Test Cut After Blade Replacement

Once the saw is completely reassembled, move it back to its normal operating position.

Confirm that tools, loose hardware, and the old blade have been removed from the work area.

Reconnect power only after the saw is fully assembled.

Before feeding valuable flooring through it, make a test cut on an appropriate scrap piece.

Listen for unusual sounds and pay attention to vibration.

The saw should cut smoothly without visible blade wobble, rubbing, or unusual resistance.

Check the resulting cut.

A new compatible blade should produce predictable performance for the material it was designed to cut.

If something feels wrong, stop immediately and unplug the saw before inspecting it.

Common Mistakes When Changing a SKIL Flooring Saw Blade

The most common mistake is turning the blade bolt the wrong way.

Remember that the 3601 has a left-hand thread, so clockwise loosens the bolt.

Another common mistake is buying a replacement blade based only on diameter. The arbor, kerf, plate thickness, and speed rating also matter.

Installing the blade with the rotation arrow reversed is another avoidable problem.

Pay attention to the outer collar as well. It should go back in its correct orientation rather than being flipped or replaced with an improvised spacer.

Do not over-tighten the blade bolt.

And finally, do not overlook blade clearance after the installation. A blade that contacts the base, table, or another component should not be powered up for a “quick test.”

FAQs About How to Change Blade on SKILSAW Flooring Saw

Which way do you turn the blade bolt on a SKIL 3601 flooring saw?

Turn the blade bolt clockwise to loosen and remove it. The bolt has a left-hand thread, so its direction is opposite that of a normal right-hand-thread bolt.

What size blade does the SKIL 3601 flooring saw use?

It uses a 4-3/8-inch (110 mm) blade with a 3/4-inch arbor.

Can I use a 4-1/2-inch blade instead?

Not on the 3601/3601-02 if you are following the manufacturer’s specifications. The manual specifies a 4-3/8-inch blade and warns against using a larger or smaller diameter.

What arbor size does the SKIL flooring saw use?

The SKIL 3601/3601-02 uses a 3/4-inch arbor.

What RPM rating should the replacement blade have?

The replacement blade should have a minimum speed rating of 11,000 RPM for this model.

What is the minimum blade kerf?

The manual specifies a replacement blade kerf of at least 0.061 inch.

How thick can the blade body be?

The blade plate or body should be less than 0.057 inch thick.

Why does the blade bolt loosen clockwise?

It uses a left-hand thread. This threading arrangement is intentional, which is why normal “lefty-loosey” expectations do not apply.

Do I need to remove the inner washer?

No. The standard blade-change procedure says the inner washer does not need to be removed.

Do I need to remove the riving knife?

No. Routine blade replacement does not require removing the riving knife.

How do I know which direction the new blade goes?

Match the rotation arrow on the blade with the rotation arrow on the upper blade guard.

How tight should the blade bolt be?

Tighten it securely using the arbor lock and correct wrench, but do not overtighten it. Start the bolt by hand before final tightening.

Why won’t my new blade fit?

Check the blade diameter, 3/4-inch arbor, and whether it is properly aligned with the arbor and washers. Never force an incorrectly sized blade onto the saw.

Why is the blade rubbing after replacement?

The replacement blade may have incorrect dimensions, the collar may not be seated correctly, or the blade/riving knife could be misaligned. Stop using the saw until the cause is corrected.

What should I do if the new blade touches the table?

Do not operate the saw. The manufacturer instructs users to seek authorized service if the blade contacts the base or table structure after installation.

Can I use a metal-cutting blade on the flooring saw?

The standard 3601 blade instructions warn against using the blade for metal or masonry. Use the flooring saw only for materials and blades approved by the saw manufacturer.

Why is my new blade chipping laminate flooring?

Check whether the blade is designed for laminate or flooring, whether it is installed in the correct rotation direction, and whether it is sharp. A coarse or inappropriate blade may leave more chipping.

How often should I change the blade?

There is no universal cut count. Replace or sharpen the blade when cutting performance declines significantly or when you find damaged, cracked, loose, or missing teeth.

Can I change the blade without unplugging the saw?

No. Disconnect the power cord before blade removal, installation, adjustment, or repair.

What if my flooring saw is not model 3601 or 3601-02?

Check the exact model manual before proceeding. Blade dimensions and bolt directions can differ, so do not assume another SKIL or SKILSAW model uses the same procedure.

Conclusion

Knowing how to change blade on SKILSAW flooring saw equipment is straightforward once you understand the unusual blade-bolt direction and use a replacement blade that actually matches the saw.

For the common SKIL 3601/3601-02 flooring saw, start by unplugging the machine and sliding the saw assembly to its farthest rear position. Remove the rear screw from the blade-bolt cover, rotate the cover away, hold the arbor lock, and turn the blade bolt clockwise to loosen it because the bolt has a left-hand thread.

Remove the outer collar and slide the old blade downward through the kerf insert and out through the underside of the table. The inner washer normally stays in place.

When installing the replacement, use a 4-3/8-inch blade with a 3/4-inch arbor, an appropriate minimum speed rating, at least a 0.061-inch kerf, and a blade body thinner than 0.057 inch. Match the blade’s rotation arrow with the arrow on the upper guard before reinstalling the collar and bolt.

Tighten the blade bolt securely without overtightening, release the arbor lock, reinstall the blade-bolt cover, and inspect the saw carefully before reconnecting power. If the blade rubs the riving knife, wobbles, or contacts the table structure, do not operate the saw until the problem is corrected.

My recommendation is to treat blade compatibility as seriously as the actual replacement procedure. The right 4-3/8-inch blade, correct rotation direction, proper collar installation, and left-hand blade-bolt technique are the keys to changing a SKIL flooring saw blade safely and getting clean, reliable cuts afterward.