How to Make a Counterbalance for a Panel Saw
If you are wondering how to make a counterbalance for a panel saw, the simplest DIY method is usually to connect the saw carriage to a properly sized counterweight with rated cable running over one or more pulleys at the top of the frame. The counterweight should offset most—but usually not all—of the moving carriage weight so the saw moves smoothly while still staying under your control.
A good counterbalance makes a vertical panel saw much easier and safer to operate. Without one, you may have to lift the full weight of the saw motor and carriage every time you make an upward adjustment. If the carriage is heavy, it can also fall quickly when released.
However, the goal is not to make the carriage completely weightless. A perfectly balanced or overbalanced carriage can move unexpectedly, rise on its own, or become difficult to control. I generally recommend leaving a small amount of effective downward force so the carriage stays predictable.
There are several ways to build the system. A hanging counterweight and pulley arrangement is the easiest to understand and tune. A constant-force spring can produce a cleaner commercial-style installation. Extension springs, gas springs, and multiple-pulley systems are also possible, but they require more careful geometry.
Because a falling saw carriage or detached counterweight can cause serious injury, this project should use load-rated hardware, secure attachment points, guards around moving weights, and a secondary restraint where practical.
In this guide, I’ll explain how to make a counterbalance for a panel saw, how to calculate the required weight, how to route the cable and pulleys, how to use springs instead of weights, and how to test the finished system safely.
How a Panel Saw Counterbalance Works
A vertical panel saw normally has a carriage that moves up and down along rails.
That moving assembly can include the saw motor, blade guard, mounting plate, bearings, handles, and other hardware.
Gravity constantly pulls the entire assembly downward.
A counterbalance applies force in the opposite direction.
If the carriage weighs 40 pounds and the counterbalance pulls upward with approximately 35 pounds of force, the operator only feels about 5 pounds of effective downward load, ignoring friction.
That makes the saw much easier to move without making it uncontrollably light.
The Main Counterbalance Options
For a DIY panel saw, the most practical systems are:
- Hanging counterweight with cable and pulley
- Constant-force spring
- Extension spring system
- Gas spring or gas strut
A counterweight is usually the easiest system to fabricate and adjust.
A constant-force spring gives a compact result and is similar in principle to systems used on many commercial machines.
Key Takeaways:
- A panel saw counterbalance offsets most of the carriage weight.
- Slight under-balancing is usually easier to control than perfect balance.
- Counterweights and constant-force springs are the most practical approaches.
Safety Before Building a Panel Saw Counterbalance
Before working on the saw, unplug it or otherwise isolate it from power.
Do not work underneath an unsupported carriage.
Clamp or mechanically secure the carriage so it cannot fall while you install cables, pulleys, or springs.
The counterbalance itself stores energy. A suspended weight can fall, and a stretched spring can release suddenly.
Use hardware designed for lifting or load-bearing applications where appropriate.
Do not use lightweight picture-hanging cable, plastic clothesline pulleys, drywall anchors, or unknown hardware simply because the static weight appears low.
The system also experiences shock loads when the carriage starts, stops, or reaches the end of its travel.
I recommend designing with a substantial safety margin rather than choosing components rated exactly equal to the carriage weight.
Measure the Panel Saw Carriage Weight First
Before you can size the counterbalance, determine how much moving mass you actually need to support.
The relevant weight is not the entire panel saw.
You need the weight of the moving carriage assembly.
This can include:
The saw motor, carriage plate, guard, sliding bearings, handles, cable carriers, and any accessories that move vertically with the saw.
How to Measure It
If the carriage can safely be removed, weighing the complete assembly on a scale is straightforward.
If removal is impractical, you can support the carriage with a hanging scale or force gauge while carefully relieving its load.
Another approach is to weigh individual components and add them together, although direct measurement is usually more accurate.
For example, suppose your moving carriage weighs:
42 lb
That becomes the starting point for your counterbalance calculation.
How Much Counterweight Does a Panel Saw Need?
With a basic 1:1 pulley arrangement, the counterweight force is approximately equal to the hanging counterweight itself.
So a 35-pound counterweight produces roughly 35 pounds of upward balancing force, ignoring friction.
If the carriage weighs 42 pounds, you might start with around 35–38 pounds rather than immediately installing the full 42 pounds.
That leaves several pounds of effective downward force.
Basic Formula
For a simple 1:1 counterweight:
Counterweight ≈ Carriage Weight − Desired Downward Force
For example:
Carriage weight = 42 lb
Desired remaining downward force = 5 lb
Counterweight = 42 − 5
Counterweight ≈ 37 lb
This does not include pulley friction, bearing resistance, or cable drag, so final adjustment should always be done by testing.
Why Not Counterbalance 100 Percent?
If the carriage and counterweight are exactly equal, small friction differences can determine which direction the carriage moves.
If the counterweight becomes slightly heavier because of measurement error or changing accessories, the saw can rise on its own.
Leaving a few pounds of downward bias usually makes the tool feel more predictable.
How to Make a Counterweight Panel Saw System
A basic counterweight system contains four major parts:
A cable attachment point on the saw carriage, one or more top pulleys, a load-rated cable, and a protected counterweight that moves vertically behind or beside the frame.
The arrangement can be extremely simple.
The cable attaches to the top of the carriage, runs vertically upward over a pulley, then descends behind the machine to the weight.
As the carriage moves downward, the weight rises.
As the carriage moves upward, the weight descends.
Step 1: Find a Strong Carriage Attachment Point
The cable needs to pull near the centerline of the moving carriage.
If you attach it far to one side, the upward force can twist the carriage and increase rail friction.
The attachment point must be part of the structural carriage, not a plastic blade guard or thin sheet-metal cover.
A through-bolt with suitable washers and a properly rated eye or clevis is generally better than a small screw threaded into thin material.
Step 2: Install the Upper Pulley
Mount the pulley directly above the carriage cable path.
The pulley should turn freely and have a groove appropriate for your cable.
The supporting bracket must be able to withstand more than the counterweight itself because dynamic loading can exceed the static load.
Attach it to the structural frame of the panel saw.
Do not attach a heavy counterbalance pulley only to decorative sheet metal.
Step 3: Route the Cable
Connect one end of the cable securely to the saw carriage.
Run it upward over the pulley and down the back of the saw.
Keep the cable path straight.
Avoid sharp bends, rubbing against steel edges, and locations where the cable can enter a pinch point.
Step 4: Attach the Counterweight
Connect the other end to your counterweight.
The weight should remain guided so it cannot swing freely.
A swinging 30- or 40-pound weight behind a machine is hazardous.
A vertical tube, enclosed channel, guide rods, or guarded weight box can keep it contained.
Step 5: Start With Less Weight
Do not immediately load the system to the calculated final amount.
Begin lighter.
For a 40-pound carriage, you might initially install around 25–30 pounds.
Slowly release the secured carriage while maintaining control.
Then increase the weight gradually until the saw feels comfortable.
What Can You Use as a Panel Saw Counterweight?
The best counterweight is compact, secure, adjustable, and easy to contain.
Steel plates or bar stock work well because they provide significant weight in a small space.
Gym weight plates can also work if they can be secured properly.
Another approach is a steel container that accepts smaller removable plates.
Avoid Loose Material if Possible
A bucket filled with rocks or loose scrap might technically provide enough weight, but it is not a very refined or secure solution.
The contents can shift and change the center of gravity.
The handle can also become the weakest part of the system.
A solid or mechanically secured weight stack is preferable.
Make the Weight Adjustable
During initial setup, the ability to change the counterweight in small increments is extremely useful.
For example, you could build a holder that accepts several:
2-pound or 5-pound steel plates.
This lets you tune the system without rebuilding it.
Guide the Counterweight So It Cannot Swing
This is one of the most important parts of a good design.
A counterweight hanging freely from a long cable behaves like a pendulum.
If the saw carriage moves quickly, the weight can swing into the frame or operator.
Build a guide around it.
Simple Weight Guide
A rectangular steel channel or enclosed wooden box can guide the weight vertically.
Leave enough clearance that the weight moves without binding.
The cable should remain centered over the weight.
Guide Rods
Two vertical rods can also guide a weight plate fitted with suitable bushings or holes.
This produces smooth movement but requires accurate alignment.
Fully Enclosed Counterweight
The safest arrangement is often a counterweight completely enclosed behind the panel saw frame.
The enclosure prevents anyone from placing a hand or foot beneath the moving mass.
Choose the Correct Cable
Do not choose cable only according to the static counterweight.
A 40-pound load does not mean that a 50-pound-rated cord is adequate.
Starts, stops, accidental impacts, and wear can create additional forces.
Use a flexible cable compatible with the pulley and rated generously above the expected load.
Aircraft-style steel cable is commonly suitable for this type of mechanical application when correctly terminated and matched to the pulleys.
Synthetic high-strength line may also work in certain designs, but abrasion and heat resistance must be considered.
Pay Attention to Cable Terminations
The cable connection is often more likely to fail than the cable itself.
Use appropriate swaged fittings, thimbles, clamps, or manufacturer-approved terminations.
Do not tie a casual knot in steel cable.
Inspect cable ends regularly for slipping, fraying, or broken strands.
Choose Load-Rated Pulleys
The pulley should match the cable diameter and construction.
A pulley that is too small forces the cable through a tight bend every time the saw moves.
That accelerates fatigue.
Larger pulley diameters generally reduce cable bending stress.
The pulley should also have proper bearings or bushings and a strong axle.
Prevent Cable Derailment
Use a pulley design that keeps the cable inside the groove.
Side guards or a retaining feature are valuable.
If the cable jumps off the pulley, the counterbalance can instantly stop functioning and the carriage may fall.
Add a Secondary Safety Restraint
A counterbalance should never be the only thing preventing an uncontrolled carriage drop if a failure could injure someone.
Where practical, add a secondary mechanism.
This might be:
A second independent cable, mechanical carriage stop, safety catch, or travel-limiting system.
The exact design depends on your panel saw.
The important principle is that one broken cable or fitting should not automatically produce a dangerous free fall.
Key Takeaways:
- Keep the counterweight guided or enclosed rather than allowing it to swing.
- Use properly rated cable, pulleys, and structural mounting points.
- A secondary restraint provides protection if the primary counterbalance fails.
How to Use a 2:1 Pulley System on a Panel Saw
You can use mechanical advantage if the physical layout makes a direct 1:1 arrangement inconvenient.
However, pulley systems change both required weight and travel distance.
This is where DIY counterbalances can become confusing.
Basic Mechanical Advantage
With an ideal 2:1 arrangement, the load can be supported by two rope segments.
Depending on which side is moving, the required force and travel relationship change.
A properly designed system might allow a lighter counterweight but require the weight to move farther, or vice versa.
You cannot simply add another pulley and assume the same weight calculation still applies.
Why 1:1 Is Better for Most DIY Builds
A direct system is easier to calculate and inspect.
If the saw carriage moves 30 inches down, the counterweight moves approximately 30 inches up.
That makes travel limits easy to understand.
Unless space limitations require mechanical advantage, I recommend using a simple 1:1 arrangement.
Make Sure the Counterweight Has Enough Travel
Before finalizing anything, measure the full vertical travel of the saw carriage.
If the saw moves 36 inches vertically, your counterweight needs enough clear travel to move approximately the same distance in a 1:1 system.
At both ends, leave extra clearance.
Do not allow the weight to hit the floor before the saw reaches the top.
Do not let it hit the upper pulley or frame before the saw reaches the bottom.
Add Mechanical Stops
Use properly positioned stops so neither component can move beyond the safe range.
The cable should not become the travel stop.
Repeatedly jerking against the cable end can damage the cable, fittings, pulley, or frame.
How to Balance the Saw After Installation
Once the system is assembled, keep the saw unplugged.
Position the carriage near the middle of its travel.
Hold it firmly and gradually remove any temporary support.
Observe what happens.
If the Saw Falls Too Quickly
Add more counterweight in small increments.
You can also inspect the pulleys for excessive friction.
If the Saw Rises by Itself
Remove counterweight.
An overbalanced carriage can be just as inconvenient as an underbalanced one.
If the Saw Stays Put but Feels Sticky
The problem may not be counterweight.
Dirty rails, misaligned bearings, damaged wheels, or carriage binding can create varying friction through the travel range.
Fix the sliding mechanism first.
A counterbalance should not be used to hide poor carriage alignment.
How Much Downward Force Should Remain?
There is no universal number.
The desired feel depends on carriage weight, handle position, cutting direction, and saw design.
For many DIY systems, leaving a small but noticeable downward bias works well.
For example, with a 40-pound carriage, approximately 3–8 pounds of effective downward load might provide comfortable control.
That is only a starting range, not a specification.
The final setting should allow the carriage to move smoothly without racing downward or lifting by itself.
How to Make a Spring Counterbalance for a Panel Saw
If you do not want a hanging weight, a spring system can reduce the space required.
However, ordinary coil springs have an important disadvantage: their force changes as they stretch.
That means the counterbalance may feel stronger at one end of travel than at the other.
Extension Springs
An extension spring pulls harder as it stretches.
If the geometry is not designed carefully, your panel saw may be nearly balanced at the top but poorly balanced near the bottom.
This can still work, especially if pulley geometry compensates for the changing spring force.
But it is more difficult to tune than a counterweight.
Constant-Force Springs
A constant-force spring is often a better match.
This type uses a tightly wound strip of spring material that provides relatively consistent force through much of its extension range.
Commercial vertical equipment frequently uses this principle because the balancing force remains more uniform.
How to Size a Constant-Force Spring
Start with the same carriage weight measurement used for a counterweight system.
Suppose the carriage weighs 40 pounds.
If you want approximately 5 pounds of downward bias, you need around:
40 − 5 = 35 pounds of upward assistance
You could theoretically use one 35-pound-rated constant-force spring, or two springs providing roughly 17.5 pounds each, depending on the design.
Using two symmetrical springs can help reduce side loading.
Check More Than Force Rating
When selecting a spring, consider:
Rated force, maximum extension, drum diameter, mounting configuration, cycle life, and safety factor.
A spring with enough force but insufficient travel will not work.
Similarly, a spring that reaches its extension limit before the saw reaches full travel can fail violently.
Why Two Springs Can Be Better Than One
If you mount one counterbalance spring far to one side of the carriage, it can create twisting force.
Two equal springs mounted symmetrically can provide more even lifting force.
The same principle applies to counterweight cables.
If your carriage is wide and sensitive to racking, dual support points may improve movement.
However, dual systems must be synchronized so one side does not carry most of the load.
Can You Use a Garage-Door Spring?
I do not recommend improvising with garage-door torsion or extension springs unless you fully understand their stored-energy hazards and can engineer appropriate containment.
Garage-door springs can store a large amount of energy.
Failure or incorrect adjustment can cause serious injury.
A purpose-selected industrial constant-force spring or professionally designed counterbalance component is usually a better choice for a panel saw.
Can You Use Gas Struts for a Panel Saw Counterbalance?
Yes, in some designs.
Gas struts produce force through compressed gas inside a cylinder.
They are common on hatches, machine guards, and lifting mechanisms.
A properly selected gas strut can help support a panel saw carriage.
However, the geometry matters substantially.
Gas-Strut Force Changes With Angle
A gas strut mounted at an angle does not apply all of its force vertically.
Only part of that force contributes to lifting the carriage.
The effective force changes as the angle changes.
This can make a gas-strut system harder to calculate than a straightforward counterweight.
Travel Must Match
The gas strut must have enough stroke to cover the complete carriage movement through whatever linkage you use.
If it reaches full extension or compression too early, the mechanism can bind or damage the strut.
For a simple DIY vertical panel saw, I usually prefer a counterweight or correctly specified constant-force spring.
Counterweight vs. Spring for a Panel Saw
Both can work well.
A counterweight has a major advantage: the balancing force remains nearly constant throughout travel.
If the weight is 35 pounds, it continues pulling with approximately 35 pounds whether the carriage is at the top or bottom.
A conventional extension spring does not behave this way.
Its force changes as it stretches.
Counterweight Advantages
A counterweight is easy to calculate, inexpensive, adjustable, and predictable.
Its disadvantages are the space required for the moving weight and the need for safe containment.
Constant-Force Spring Advantages
A constant-force spring saves space and can create a cleaner machine.
Its disadvantages include more demanding component selection and potentially more hazardous stored energy if the spring or mounting fails.
For a one-off DIY build, a guided counterweight is usually easier to troubleshoot.
What if the Panel Saw Carriage Binds?
Do not compensate for binding by simply adding more counterweight.
The carriage should move freely before the balancing system is tuned.
Check the guide rails for dirt, sawdust, dents, and misalignment.
Inspect wheels, bearings, bushings, and guide blocks.
Make sure the carriage remains square to the rails.
Variable Resistance Is a Warning Sign
If the carriage feels light in one area and extremely heavy in another, your counterbalance may not be the primary problem.
A properly aligned carriage should have reasonably consistent resistance throughout its travel.
Correct the mechanical issue first.
Where Should the Counterbalance Cable Attach?
Ideally, the upward force should act close to the carriage’s center of resistance.
That often means near the middle of the carriage width.
If you pull strongly from one side, the carriage may cock slightly against the rails.
This increases friction and wear.
Dual Cable Arrangement
Wide or heavy carriages may benefit from two cables, one on each side.
Both cables can sometimes connect to a single counterweight through carefully arranged pulleys.
Alternatively, two independent balancing elements can be used.
Whichever system you choose, both sides should share the load evenly.
Protect the Counterbalance From Sawdust
Panel saws generate a large amount of dust.
Sawdust can enter pulley bearings, coat guide tracks, and contaminate springs.
Place the counterbalance system where it receives minimal direct dust.
Guards can help protect moving components.
Periodic cleaning is still necessary.
Do not lubricate components indiscriminately because sticky oil can collect even more sawdust.
Follow the bearing or pulley manufacturer’s lubrication recommendations.
How to Test the Finished Counterbalance Safely
Keep the saw unplugged throughout initial testing.
Move the carriage manually through the entire travel range.
Do this slowly.
Check that:
The cable remains in the pulley groove, the counterweight stays inside its guide, the weight never reaches the end of its travel, the carriage does not rise by itself, and no cable rubs against the frame.
Then stop the carriage at several positions.
Make sure it remains controllable everywhere.
Perform a Failure Inspection
Look at what would happen if:
The cable broke, a pulley bolt loosened, the weight attachment failed, or the carriage reached an end stop.
If any single failure could send a heavy weight toward the operator or allow the saw carriage to free-fall, improve the guarding or secondary restraint before operating the saw.
Key Takeaways:
- Test the counterbalance with the saw disconnected from power.
- Confirm safe operation through the entire carriage travel, not just at one position.
- Design around possible cable, pulley, and attachment-point failures.
Common Panel Saw Counterbalance Mistakes
One of the biggest mistakes is using too much counterweight.
Operators sometimes try to achieve perfect balance and accidentally make the carriage rise whenever they release it.
Another common mistake is mounting the pulley to a weak part of the frame.
The pulley bracket carries continuous load and may experience much higher force when the carriage stops abruptly.
Using Hardware With No Load Rating
Cheap hooks, eye screws, and pulleys intended for household use may look strong but are not necessarily designed for repetitive machine loads.
Use appropriately rated hardware.
Leaving the Weight Unguarded
A heavy steel weight moving vertically behind the machine creates a serious pinch and crushing hazard.
Enclose it.
Using the Cable as an End Stop
The saw and counterweight should have mechanical travel limits.
The cable should remain a load-transfer component, not the part that violently stops movement.
Ignoring Cable Wear
Steel cable can fatigue where it repeatedly bends around pulleys.
Inspect it regularly for broken wires, flattening, corrosion, or deformation.
Replace damaged cable immediately.
How Often Should You Inspect the Counterbalance?
For a frequently used shop saw, visually inspect the system regularly.
Pay special attention to the cable and its terminations.
Check pulley bearings and mounting bolts.
Look for wear in spring anchors or weight guides.
Make sure fasteners have not loosened from vibration.
A more detailed inspection should be performed periodically based on how often the saw is used.
Any sudden change in carriage feel should trigger immediate inspection.
Can You Add a Counterbalance to an Existing Homemade Panel Saw?
Yes, provided the frame is structurally strong enough.
The easiest retrofit is often a top-mounted pulley and rear counterweight.
Before adding it, inspect the frame.
A panel saw originally designed without a counterbalance may not have a suitable upper crossmember for supporting the additional load.
Reinforce the structure if needed.
Remember that the top of the frame now carries forces from both the carriage and counterweight system.
Can You Copy a Commercial Panel Saw Counterbalance?
You can use a commercial design as inspiration, but you should not assume that visible dimensions tell the whole story.
Commercial machines may use specially rated springs, proprietary cable systems, hidden stops, and engineered load limits.
If replacement counterbalance parts are available for your panel saw model, using the manufacturer’s components is generally preferable to fabricating a replacement.
A DIY system makes more sense on a homemade machine or when properly engineered replacement parts are unavailable.
FAQs about how to make a counterbalance for panel saw
How do you make a counterbalance for a panel saw?
Connect the saw carriage to a guided counterweight using a load-rated cable running over a strong pulley mounted at the top of the frame.
How heavy should the panel saw counterweight be?
It should generally be slightly lighter than the moving carriage in a basic 1:1 system so the carriage retains a small downward bias.
How do I calculate panel saw counterweight?
For a simple 1:1 arrangement:
Counterweight = carriage weight − desired remaining downward force.
Final adjustment should account for friction.
Should a panel saw be perfectly balanced?
Not necessarily.
A slightly underbalanced carriage is usually easier to control because it will not rise unexpectedly.
What is the easiest DIY panel saw counterbalance?
A guided hanging weight with one upper pulley is usually the simplest to build and tune.
Can I use gym weights as a counterbalance?
Yes, if the plates are securely contained and attached through hardware designed to carry the load.
Can I use a bucket of sand as a counterweight?
It can technically work, but a solid secured weight is generally safer and more predictable.
Should the counterweight be enclosed?
I strongly recommend it.
An enclosure prevents the moving weight from swinging or creating an accessible crushing hazard.
Can I use steel cable?
Yes.
Flexible load-rated steel cable is commonly suitable when paired with properly sized pulleys and terminations.
Can I use rope instead?
Certain high-strength synthetic lines may be suitable, but abrasion, stretch, heat, pulley compatibility, and load rating must be considered.
How big should the pulley be?
Use a pulley designed for your chosen cable diameter and load.
A larger pulley generally reduces cable bending fatigue compared with a very small one.
Can I use two pulleys?
Yes.
Additional pulleys can change routing or mechanical advantage, but you need to recalculate counterweight force and travel.
Is a 1:1 pulley setup best?
For most DIY panel saws, yes.
It is simple to calculate and troubleshoot.
Can I use extension springs instead of a counterweight?
Yes, but their force increases as they stretch, so balancing may vary throughout the saw’s travel.
Are constant-force springs better?
They are often better suited to vertical counterbalance applications because their force remains relatively consistent over their working travel.
Can I use gas struts?
Yes, if correctly sized and mounted, but changing mounting angles make the effective lifting force more complicated to calculate.
Can I use garage-door springs?
I do not recommend them as an improvised solution because they store substantial energy and require careful engineering and containment.
Where should the cable attach to the saw carriage?
As close as practical to the carriage’s centerline so the upward force does not twist or rack the carriage.
Why does my carriage bind after adding the counterbalance?
The cable may be pulling off-center, the rails may be misaligned, or the carriage bearings may already have excessive friction.
What happens if the counterweight is too heavy?
The saw carriage may rise on its own and become difficult or unsafe to control.
What happens if the counterweight is too light?
The carriage will still feel heavy and may drop rapidly when released.
Do I need a safety cable?
A secondary restraint is highly recommended where a primary cable failure could cause a dangerous free fall.
Conclusion
If you are learning how to make a counterbalance for a panel saw, a guided counterweight and pulley system is usually the simplest DIY solution.
Start by measuring the actual weight of the moving saw carriage.
For a basic 1:1 system, choose a counterweight slightly lighter than the carriage so the saw retains a small amount of downward force. For example, a 40-pound carriage might ultimately use roughly 32–37 pounds of counterweight depending on friction and the feel you want.
Attach the cable to a strong point near the center of the carriage, route it over a load-rated pulley mounted to the structural frame, and connect the opposite end to a securely contained counterweight.
Do not allow the weight to swing freely.
Use a guide or enclosure, provide mechanical travel stops, and use rated cable and termination hardware.
If space is limited, a properly specified constant-force spring can provide a cleaner alternative. Conventional extension springs and gas struts can also work, but their changing forces and mounting geometry make them more difficult to calculate.
Most importantly, treat the counterbalance as a machine-safety system rather than just a convenience.
Test the complete mechanism with the saw unplugged, move the carriage through its full range, verify that the weight cannot hit its limits, and consider what happens if a cable or fitting fails.
My preferred DIY approach is a simple 1:1 pulley system with an adjustable, fully guided counterweight and a small downward bias on the saw carriage. It is easy to tune, provides nearly constant balancing force, and can be inspected visually whenever you use the panel saw.
